Failed relationships and their ruins
“Every passion, ultimately, has its spectator….(there is) no amorous oblation without a final theatre”. – Roland Barthe in A Lover’s Discourse
A Caterpillar Timunaki
(next to the exhibit): I had this big love, a long-distance relationship, Sarajevo – Zagreb. It lasted for 20 months. Of course, we dreamt of a life together and with that in mind, I bought this huge caterpillar. Every time we would see each other, we would break off one leg. When we ran out of legs to tear, that would be the time to start a life together. But, naturally, as is often the case with great loves, the relationship broke and so the caterpillar did not become a complete invalid after all.
This was one of the exhibits I saw first when I entered the Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb. We only had a few hours to kill in the city before driving down to Ljubljana. We decided to walk about the Ban Jelačić Square, taking in the sights, watching the people thronging about, feeling the summer buzz in the air. And then my husband and daughter went off to another lively square to enjoy street performances and ice-cream while I headed to this unusual museum.
The imposing Zagreb Cathedral
The Museum of Broken Relationships grew from a travelling exhibition. It offers a chance to overcome an emotional collapse through creation: by contributing to the Museum’s collection. People embraced the idea of exhibiting their emotional legacy as a sort of ritual, a solemn ceremony.
Total number of exhibits in the collection: Between 1619 to 1700
The country most represented in the collection: USA
Donors’ Male- Female ratio: 35: 65%
The only replica exhibited: A mould of an ecstasy pill donated in Amsterdam (the original couldn’t be exhibited due to strict Croatian laws)
Walk everywhere in the central area of the city
To reach the museum, I had taken a right turn on Tomićeva Street, and saw this adorable funicular. I discovered that this is the shortest cable car in the world. It has been transporting people between the Upper and Lower towns for about 120 years. Seemed like something that my daughter would have enjoyed!
I took the stairs and then crossed an underpass to reach the Upper town. Street art all over that underpass.
St. Marks Church in the Upper town. This is a picturesque area to stroll around.
Another area to explore is the pedestrian-only Tkalčićeva Street, a beautiful street lined with restaurants, cafes and small boutiques. A river flowed here that separated the districts of Kaptol and Gradec. At the end of the 19th century, because of the pollution, the river was filled in and converted into streets.
Headed to Croatian islands? Do read:
Food in Zagreb
Mali Bar serves good fusion food.
We had a delicious breakfast at Otto & Frank on Tkalčićeva Street. This sumptuous breakfast served us well before we got on driving to Plitvice national park.
Have you had any unusual experience wandering around a new city?