For a first-time visit to Japan, you would normally explore the classic Tokyo-Kyoto-Osaka route, and we did that as well. But Japan has more to offer beyond its buzzing metropolises and the known tourist attractions. Rural Japan with its slow travel vibe, lack of crowds and stunning natural scenery offers a great addition to your classic Japan itinerary. We found our slice of heaven at Mount Koya. This was an overnight trip from Osaka to experience an unique temple stay at Koyasan.
Koyasan is a UNESCO World Heritage site in Japan. It is the birthplace and heart of Shingon Buddhism, founded by the revered monk Kobo Daishi (Kukai). The experience of staying overnight in a temple (shukubo) at Koyasan though unique is expensive. Around 50 temples offer this service to both pilgrims and visitors. Apart from the Koyasan temple stay, we also explore historic temples, witnessed ancient Buddhist rituals, visited the sacred Okunoin Cemetery, and savoured the area’s verdant natural landscape.
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Osaka to Mount Koyasan
You are likely to visit Koyasan from Osaka or perhaps Kyoto. We did that after spending 3 days in Osaka. Although Koyasan can be done as a day trip from Osaka, I highly recommend it as an overnight trip to experience the Koyasan temple stay.
From Osaka-Namba Station, you have to take a train to Gokurakubashi. The journey takes you away from the hustle and bustle of Osaka and into the quiet mountains. From Gokurakubashi, there is a funicular to the top of Mount Koya. And finally a bus will take you to the town centre. All the connections from Osaka to centre of Koyasan are planned so there is a seamless transition from train, to funicular to bus. If you get confused at any time, the staff at each station will point you which way to go. The total journey takes about 2.5 -3 hours.
For an overnight Koyasan trip, the best thing is to buy the Koyasan World Heritage Digital Tickets. This 2-day pass gives access to a round-trip train journey on the Nankai line, the funicular (cable car) from the train station to Mount Koya, and further unlimited bus travel within the town.
The bus dropped us very near to our chosen stay at Syukubo Ekoin Temple. We had carried only a backpack each for this trip to Koyasan from Osaka and used the Yamato service to send our suitcases ahead to our Tokyo hotel. If you are carrying your luggage, you can store it at coin lockers at major train stations like Osaka-Namba or Shin-Osaka station. There are few lockers at Gokurakubashi station, so relying on them could be risky.
Koyasan Itinerary
Check-in at Ekoin Temple
For us, apart from the history and traditions of Koyasan, the special experience and hospitality of Koyasan’s temple lodging was the main delight. Eko-in, a 1000 year-old Buddhist temple, offers serene Japanese-style room and common bathrooms for the overnight pilgrim stay.
Our room featured tatami-mat flooring, comfortable futon bedding and paper sliding screens. A completely different vibe than the modern hotel rooms we had chosen to stay in Japan. They was an LCD TV (which was left unused during our short stay) and a safe in the room. Bathroom facilities are shared, and the public baths are available for long hours during the day.
Temple sightseeing and lunch
Though the temple offers lunch with prior notification, we wanted to have a meal in the town centre. So, we checked in and left to explore this peaceful town on foot. It is difficult to describe the serenity and the verdant greenery everywhere here. We crossed some other temples and a shrine with multiple torii gates. We had researched on a café for lunch and found that closed. Further internet research got us to a Japanese style meal, a bit similar to the vegetarian dinner we had later in the day at our Buddhist Temple. My teen daughter did not enjoy either meal.
We soon came upon the large Daimon Gate. At approximately 25 m high, it is a sight to behold. The two side statues of Kongorikishi, one of the largest in Japan, are quite impressive. We then proceeded to Koyasan’s central temple complex. The Danjo Garan Sacred Temple Complex was opened by Kobo Daishi as a place for secret training in Shingon esoteric Buddhism. Several temples are located inside the Danjo Garan. The 49-meter tall Konpon Daito Pagoda is of an especially splendid and impressive scale. It is also referred to as the Great Stupa, and it houses a sacred representation of the cosmos within its structure.
We stopped at a bridge nearby to take some photos. Roaming around the town and visiting the different temples, bridges and shrines was the part that my daughter enjoyed in Koyasan. We went to a cafe to get our coffee intake before heading back to Eko-in temple.
Group Meditation Hour
It was raining when we reached the temple. Half of the allure of the Koyasan temple stay is the different Buddhist rituals that you get to participate in. It was time for our early evening meditation session (available every day from 4:30 pm for about 40 minutes). Ajikan is a meditation method in Esoteric Buddhism. This activity at Ekoin is is free for guests, but also available to visitors who are not staying overnight at the temple.
A monk got the group to sit comfortably in the meditation room (Ajikan Dojo), introduced himself and gave us detailed instructions. A refreshing hour indeed!
Early dinner served at the Temple
Post the meditation session, we went back to our room and waited for our early dinner meal. Shojin ryori is a very healthy cuisine that uses plenty of natural ingredients. Dishes are made with plenty of seasonal vegetables, seaweed, beans, and edible wild plants. To be honest, it looks prettier than what it tastes. Or perhaps we had something similar for lunch and hence needed something different.
My daughter refused to eat any and made do with some snacks we were carrying in our backpack. In any case, we finished our meal quickly and got ready for the night tour we had pre-booked.
Night Tour of Okunoin Cemetry
Okunoin is said to be the largest cemetery in the world. You can visit the cemetery by yourself if you are doing a day trip to Koyasan. If you are staying overnight, I recommend taking a night tour of Okunoin Cemetery. This large cemetery with over 200,000 grave markers within a dense forest is still and almost eerie once it gets dark. Do note that his tour is not included in Ekoin’s accommodation plan, so you will need to make a separate reservation.
We assembled within the Ekoin premises and were guided by a monk who lives in Mt. Koya. Apart from telling us many stories, he also imparted some Buddhist wisdom. We walked through rows upon rows of monumental tombstones lining a stone path through the cedar trees. The pathway’s end is the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi where he sits in eternal meditation. Shingon practitioners do not believe he is dead. The glowing lanterns in the pitch dark around his grave are beyond beautiful.
Morning service & Goma Prayer
Every day at 7 am, there is a Religious Service held in the main hall of Ekoin Temple. This is exclusive for temple guests. We were well rested with the comfortable bedding and the silence of the place. And energised to experience the uddhist rituals offered by our temple stay at Koyasan.
The religious service is conducted by senior monks of the temple. The deities Fudo Myoo, Kobo Daishi, and the Ryokai Mandala are enshrined around the principal image of Amida Nyorai in the main hall. The monks made offerings to the spirits every morning.
Following the morning service, we then proceeded to another smaller room. A Goma (Homa) Fire Ritual is performed every day at 7:30 am by the temple monks. The ceremony is performed with the purpose of destroying negative energies and detrimental desires. Visitors not staying at the lodging may apply in advance to participate.
Trip back to Osaka
After the morning rituals, we were served breakfast in our room. We checked out early but there is sufficient time to visit other temples and museums, should you be inclined. Post breakfast and early check-out, it was time to retrace our steps back to Osaka. Taking the bus back to cable car station, then the funicular to Gokurakubashi station, and finally the Nankai line to reach the Osaka-Namba station. We had time for lunch in Osaka and then start our 5-day trip to Tokyo.
Day Trip to Koyasan
So a Koyasan temple stay is expensive, but it does enhance the overall experience of Japan’s most holy town. That said, a day trip to Koyasan is possible from Osaka or Kyoto. It would be a long day of travel with the approximate 2.5 hr train – cable car – bus journey to reach Koyasan town centre and then the same trip back in the evening. If you are visiting Tokyo, you can take a similar day trip from Tokyo to Nikko national park that offers a similar blend of culture and nature as Mt. Koya.
The main attractions of Koyasan can easily be seen in a day. Other than Okunoin Cemetery, there’s Kongobu-ji (the main temple of Shingon buddhism), Danjo Garan complex, and walking around this small town. Many folks come here to enjoy the various hiking trails as well. But it’s up to you to decide if a 5-hour round trip with multiple connections is worth it for a day trip to Koyasan. Also, having done this as a family trip with a teen, Koyasan is more suited for adults.
Planning a trip to Japan? Check out –
Start with Essential Travel Tips For Japan and Japan Two Week Itinerary
City Itineraries: 5 days in Tokyo Japan, 3 Days in Kyoto Itinerary, Osaka travel itinerary
Day Trips: Best day trips from Osaka, Tokyo day trips, Hiroshima & Miyajima Island Day Trip Itinerary, Day Trip to Himeji, Ultimate Guide to Tokyo DisneySea
And finally, the Best Hotels in Japan
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What a unique and beautiful experience!
This looks like such a serene place. I’m heading to Japan in a couple weeks and staying in a temple- but with no kids. I’m sure mine wouldn’t eat any of the dinner either.
You have made the right decision about your temple stay sans kids.