Furnas is the hot springs spectacle of São Miguel, Azores. If you are spending 3 or more days in São Miguel, a trip to Furnas is a must. While the hot springs in Furnas Azores is the best reason to visit this vibrant geothermal town, there are plenty of other things to do in Furnas.
We spent one full day in Furnas enjoying the lovely town, the historic botanical garden and the famous hot springs set within that. And of course, this being Azores, no day trip is complete without panoramic views (or Miradouro in Portuguese).
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How to reach Furnas
Furnas town is located in an ancient volcanic caldera on the southeast side of São Miguel, the largest island of Azores.
Some folks stay in Furnas for a couple of days, it makes exploring the south and east parts of the São Miguel island easier. We had stayed in Ponta Delgada for our entire trip to São Miguel. It takes about 45 -50 minutes to reach Furnas from Ponta Delgada. Super easy, if you have a car.
By car: To reach Furnas, we started via local streets in Ponta Delgada from our hotel, and then transitioned onto the EN1-1A highway. From here, you can either take the south coast expressway past Vila Franca do Campo. Or head north through Ribeira Grande before crossing across the central part of the island toward the Furnas Valley.
By bus: The public transport coverage all over São Miguel is not great, so it is best to drive a rental car to Furnas, or take a taxi / private transfer. There is a bus you can take from Ponta Delgada – Alfândega station that arrives at Furnas – Águas Quentes. The trip takes about 1 hour and 27 minutes to 1 hour and 33 minutes, with a few departures daily.
Guided tour: If you don’t want to rent a car, the easiest way to manage logistics and have a great day in Furnas is a small-group tour.
Overview of Furnas Azores in one day
We took the scenic south route from Ponta Delgada to reach Furnas valley. Since we wanted to reach the panoramic viewpoints before the midday fog rolled in, we did not visit the coastal town of Vila Franca do Campo.
Top Things to do in Furnas: Hot Springs of Azores and more
1. Don’t miss out on the famous viewpoints
Miraduoro do Pico do Ferro
Our first stop en route to Furnas town was Pico do Ferro, this is the most famous viewpoint in Furnas valley. And justifiably so. Even after experiencing the epic viewpoints of Sete Cidades a day earlier, we were blown away by Pico do Ferro.
Located at an altitude of about 570 meters, it provides a dramatic, high-altitude view over the giant volcanic crater, Lagoa das Furnas, the village, and the steaming geothermal fumaroles. Free parking is available on-site. It is best to visit before 11 am or in the late afternoon, as low-hanging clouds and summer midday fog frequently roll in and obscure the panoramic view.
We were at this viewpoint just after 10 am. The drive itself was beautiful, though it was misty throughout. There were a couple of tour buses in the parking lot but those folks moved out quickly so we had the viewpoint mostly to ourselves.
Miraduoro do Salto do Cavalo
Driving ahead towards Furnas village, we took a left turn to reach the Salto do Cavalo viewpoint. The winding road with dense trees at one point and open fields thereafter provided enough natural beauty.
Situated higher up on the ridge (around 760 to 788 meters), this viewpoint looks down over both the Furnas and Povoação valleys. On a clear day, you can see across the crater to the ocean on both the north and south coasts of São Miguel.
Alas, we saw nothing! The entire valley was covered in mist and clouds. You will note this change in daytime weather during your Azores trip plenty of times. Changing weather patterns and microclimate conditions mean you can start with a clear morning, it can get cloudy rapidly and then get cleared up again quickly as well. But no regrets driving to Salto do Cavalo.
It reminded me of our Iceland road trip, where weather conditions changed rapidly even during summer months and plans had to be a bit flexible.
2. Visit the Caldeiras das Furnas
We then headed to Furnas town and parked at Terra Nostra Garden Hotel (we had a lunch booking for later here) to explore the town on foot. The weather in early August was perfect to stroll around this quaint town. We had some time to kill before our lunch booking, so we walked to the town square.
And then further to Caldeiras das Furnas, a set of hot springs in the heart of Furnas town. You will come upon bubbling field of hot water springs, small geysers, and steaming mineral vents right in the town center. I have an epic video of a local man pushing a large bag of corn on the cob into a hot spring to cook them! You can buy the boiled corn on the cob boiled from a local shop nearby.
My husband and daughter did not care for the distinct sulfur smell (rotten egg) around the active geothermal and fumarole zones. While they waited at a scenic stop away from the hot springs, I enjoyed viewing the geothermal activity. But if you have been to the famous Geysir geothermal area in Iceland, this would be a similar version (minus the famous geyser that shoots hot water every few minutes).
3. Enjoy a local meal
Enjoying the local cuisine at Furnas is a must-do activity. One of the most popular spots in Furnas town is Restaurante Tony’s at the main square. Their signature dish is Cozido das Furnas, a traditional Portuguese stew made with a heavy mix of beef, pork, chicken, chorizo, and root vegetables. Pots are lowered into underground volcanic fumarole pits near Furnas Lake and slow-cooked for 5 to 7 hours using natural geothermal heat.
We had booked another popular spot for lunch. After exploring Caldeiras das Furnas, it was time to head back to Terra Nostra Garden Hotel. Cozido das Furnas is also available at this fine-dining restaurant, but it is a large portion to share and we wanted to have different individual food dishes. Everything we had was absolutely delicious. The interiors of the fine dining restaurant and the service were on point.
4. Explore Parque Terra Nostra
The historic botanical park
Post lunch, we headed to the Terra Nostra Park to burn off the calories. Our lunch bill ensured that we got free entrance vouchers to the Terra Nostra Park (It is 1 entrance voucher per €45spent at the hotel restaurant). Had we explored the park first and paid for the entry tickets in full, we would have got a 15% discount at the hotel restaurant.
Terra Nostra Park features a 200-year-old botanical garden with over 2,000 plant species. It boasts miles of shaded alleys where you can stroll at your own pace, amid grottos, ponds, and lots of trees.
The famous thermal pool
Now for the showstopper – the thermal pool fed by a volcanic spring within the park! We were keen to take a dip at this large, amber-colored, thermal pool heated to about 39 – 40 °C. Since it closes at 430 pm (Opening hours: 1030 am – 430 pm, Last Entry: 4 pm), we enjoyed the botanical park for an hour and then headed to the thermal pool.
This large iron- and mineral-rich pool is totally worth the entrance fee to the park. The main pool stays around 36°C, but if you are adventurous, you can try standing beside the hot water gushing in at 42°C. I tried it on my back with some trepidation, it felt super hot! The dense iron in the water permanently stains light-colored or white swimsuits and towels. I had been warned of this, so had taken a black swimsuit to wear.
A cheaper alternative is Poça da Dona Beija. This popular thermal spa complex featuring natural stone-lined hot water pools is set along a warm stream. It has much better time slots (Open daily from 8:30 am to 11 pm, so it is great for night soaking under the stars.
Summary: Furnas in a day
After the relaxing dip in the thermal pool at Terra Nostra park, it was time to head back to Ponta Delgada. We took the northern route via Ribeira Grande, but if time permits, it would be better to take the southern route and make a stop at Vila Franca do Campo, a beautiful village. You can visit the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Paz, an imposting chapel with a staircase featuring 100 steps. It gives a superb view of the village and the surroundings.
I would rate our day trip to Furnas as rewarding. The outstanding viewpoint over Furnas Lake, the hot springs and botanical garden of Furnas town, the relaxing dip in the thermal pool and the gastronomy all made it memorable.
Furnas beyond a day trip
Furnas rewards folks who make a longer trip to São Miguel island. Insitead of a day trip like we did, many visitors use the town as a base to explore more of Furnas valley and the east part of the island. If you are staying in Furnas for a day or 2, there are plenty of activities to do.
Lots of activities at Furnas lake (Lagoa das Furnas)
Apart from the hot springs in Furnas, the valley is also famous for the Furnas Lake. Lagoa das Furnas is one of the 3 main crater lakes of São Miguel island. Sadly, we did not have time to visit the lake and had to be content with the morning panoramic views of the lake from Pico do Ferro. But if you are staying Furnas overnight, this lake is worth visiting.
This crater lake features walking and biking trails, a Neo-Gothic chapel (Capela de Nossa Senhora das Vitórias), and geothermal steam vents. The lake sits inside the Furnas Protected Landscape Area. It is about 3,150 hectares in size, and is ringed by numerous mineral and thermal springs including the Poça da Beija.
Do note that swimming is not allowed in Furnas lake. Small entrance fees apply for specific paths or zones like the north bank and Parque da Grená.
Explore Vila Franca do Campo
If you are staying overnight in Furnas, you can really enjoy the nature and history of Vila Franca do Campo town. One of the must-do attractions is the Islet of Vila Franca do Campo. Visits to this offshore volcanic crater located about 1.2 kilometers from the coast are made during the summer season (between June and October). The submerged caldera has created a nearly circular natural lagoon, popular for swimming and snorkelling. It is best to take to guided tour that includes round-trip boat transport, snorkelling gear for a memorable adventure.
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